咖啡字典 Coffee Dictionary – V60滤杯、Vacuum pot 真空壶/虹吸壶/赛风

V60
The brewing products of the Japanese company Hario are evidently very successful. Like the Syphon vacuum pot, the V60 pour-over has come to be the best known of its type. Most V60-type devices are essentially just a cone of some kind with a hole at the bottom. A paper filter sits inside and the device sits atop a vessel or cup. Ground coffee is placed in the filter and water poured atop the coffee, which then makes its way through the coffee and the paper filter. The method is quite simple and very manual, but technique, especially how the water is applied, is key. The V60 has unique swirling ridges, though what really makes the difference are the V60 papers, as they taste nicer than other papers.

V60 滤杯
日本品牌“哈里奥”(Hario)是一款相当成功的冲煮产品。与虹吸壶(赛风真空壶)一样,V60已经小有名气。大多数V60样式的设备最基本特点是在圆锥物的底部有个洞,滤杯里放上滤纸后,再放到一个容器或杯子上,在滤杯里倒上咖啡粉后,将水注入咖啡粉,这样水就能穿过咖啡粉和滤纸。这样手动制作的方式很简单,同时也很讲究技术,最关键的是注水方式。V60滤杯有独特的旋转式的导流肋骨,再配合上V60滤纸,能冲煮出一杯美味的咖啡。


Vacuum pot (Syphon)
The vacuum pot – “vac pot” for short – is most commonly encountered under the trade name Syphon. The Syphon is actually a specific design of the vacuum pot made by the Japanese company Hario, but, like Hoover in the UK and Ireland, it has come to represent the device itself. There is no more dramatic brewing method for filter coffee. The most common comparisons heard are those of a school science experiment and, more recently, something off the hit TV show Breaking Bad. Visually, the vac pot consists of two glass bulbs, one sitting atop the other, with a heat source beneath. Water is placed in the bottom bulb, and, depending on the design, there is either a paper, cloth, or glass filter between the two chambers. As heat is applied, the water heats up and pressure is created in the bottom chamber, forcing the water up to the top chamber at a critical point. Coffee is then added to the top chamber and is steedeliped for as long as the user desires. When the heat source is taken away a vacuum is created, sucking the brew into the bottom chamber, while the grounds remain up top. This method that the heat of the brew rises throughout; this is due to the insulating effect of the coffee on the water. This has the downside that vacuum-pot-brewed coffee can often over-extract when brewed for too long. Used well, however, the method can produce delightful coffee, all while providing a mesmerizing theatrial show.

真空壶(虹吸壶/赛风)
提到真空壶,最常见的产品名称是“赛风壶”。赛风壶其实是日本品牌“Hario”设计的一款特殊真空壶,但是就像英国和爱尔兰的“胡佛吸尘器Hoover”一样,这个产品名已经成为该器具的代名器了。滤泡式咖啡中,没有比赛风壶更具有戏剧效果的了。最常听到人们拿学校的科学实验来比较,最近则又因为电视剧“绝命毒师”大红而形成话题。外观上,真空壶有两个玻璃壶上下交叠,最下面为热源。将水放在下壶中,依据不同的设计,两个壶中间可能单独装有滤纸 滤布或是玻璃滤器。加热时,水在下壶受热,压力增加,使得到了关键时刻热水便往上壶移动。接着将咖啡倒入上壶中,依使用者喜好决定浸泡时间。当热源很危险,下壶形成真空状态便开始将咖啡往下抽取,而粉渣则会留在上壶。这个冲煮方式的温度曲线为反向,意思是由于咖啡在水面上产生的隔绝效果,冲煮的温度在萃取中会越来越高。这也是真空壶的缺点,若冲煮太久,便很容易萃取过度。反之,若运用得宜,这个冲煮方式可以冲煮出风味令人愉悦的咖啡,同时还能提供一场充满戏剧效果的冲煮秀。


Reference:
Maxwell Colonna-Dashwood, 2017, The Coffee Dictionary: An A-Z of coffee, from growing & roasting to brewing & tasting. 247pp